[Switzerland 2023] Day 1 & 2: Spending 2 Days in Lucerne + A Review For Kobi Boutique Studio Hirschenplatz
By Elin Chow - Sunday, October 01, 2023
Photo By: Elin Chow
After months of anticipation, we finally landed at Zurich International Airport at 8.30 am in the morning. We flew with Singapore Airlines from Kuala Lumpur to Zurich. Our flight from Kuala Lumpur to Zurich, with a 3 hours layover in Singapore Changi Airport, took a total of 17 hours. We were completely exhausted from the long haul flight.
Our flight arrived at a satellite terminal at Zurich International Airport, which is connected to the main terminal by the underground Skymetro. The Skymetro departs every 3 minutes and takes about 3 minutes to reach the main terminal.
IMMIGRATION CLEARANCE
Customs is a breeze in Zurich Airport, regardless of nationality. This is basically based on our observations, as well as our own experiences. Although the queue was really long, it moved very quickly. It probably took about 20 minutes to get our passports stamped.
After clearing customs and immigration, we proceeded to the baggage reclaim area to collect our bags, and then made our way to the train station. We planned to head straight to Lucerne, skipping Zurich entirely because we heard that it is quite a boring city.
GETTING FROM ZURICH AIRPORT TO LUCERNE
The cheapest and most convenient way to get from Zurich Airport is by train. You can check the train timetable and information on SBB Mobile app. This will help you to plan your journey better. To search for the train services from Zurich Airport to Lucerne, you have to enter Zurich Flughafen as the departure point and Luzern, Bahnhof as the arrival point.
Direct train from Zurich to Lucerne is scheduled every 30 minutes. The journey will take around 1 hour 15 minutes. Train tickets can be bought from the SBB ticket machines right in front of the SBB Travel Centre. A 2nd class ticket will cost 15 CHF with a half fare card. If you hold a Swiss Travel Pass, you can ride the train for free.
We were lucky to be able to sit in a First class cabin which was temporarily marked as Second class cabin. First class seats are more spacious and comfortable than Second class seats. There are also more space for luggage, as well as a table for each seat.
Upon exiting the station, we were greeted by the Torbogen Luzen, main entrance to the old station that was unfortunately, destroyed in a major fire in 1971.
ACCOMMODATION
Upon arriving in Lucerne, we headed straight to Kobi Boutique Studio Hirschenplatz - a studio apartment that we had reserved for two nights. We were thankful that the accommodation owner has allowed us to check-in to our room a few hours early at no additional cost as we were really tired after the long flight
The studio apartment is located in the heart of Lucerne's old town, about 7 minutes walk away from Lucerne Main Station. It is situated on a quiet street, just a few steps away from Rathaus Clock Tower and the famous Chapel Bridge.
The location of the studio apartment is very convenient, with easy access to most of the main tourist attractions in Lucerne. However, there is no lift in the building. The studio apartment is located on the third floor, so we had to lug our insanely heavy luggage up a narrow spiral staircase. I would not recommend anyone with mobility disabilities to book a stay here. You might want to avoid booking this place if you are carrying large and heavy luggage too.
But fortunately, we were pleasantly pleased with the studio apartment. Fitted with parquet flooring, the studio apartment comes with a queen size bed, well-equipped kitchenette, a wardrobe, a small dining area and a private bathroom. Although the studio apartment is quite small, there is still sufficient space for us to open up two 28 inches luggage.
The apartment was clean, cozy and equipped with everything we needed for a short stay. However, we the pillows were extremely uncomfortable as they were too flat and soft. It was really difficult for us to get a good night's sleep.
The kitchenette is equipped with a built-in microwave oven, a built-in refrigerator, cooking tools and kitchen utensils, which are adequate for making a simple meal.
The long narrow bathroom is divided into three main areas: wash basin, shower and toilet. However, the accommodation only provides a wall-mounted all-in-one hair and body wash and a bottle of hand wash. Other bathroom amenities include hairdryer and towels.
There is also a Nespresso coffee machine with lots of free capsules provided. For non-coffee drinkers, there are free tea bags provided as well.
After freshening up, we made our meal in Switzerland with the microwave oven in the apartment. We were starving after a long day of travelling.
FOOD
After a brief respite, we headed out to the supermarket to grab some food. As eating out is very expensive in Switzerland, we settled all our meals at the supermarket. There is a small Migros and a bigger Coop at Lucerne Main Station. We prefer Coop to Migros because there are more selection of products.
During our 2 days stay in Lucerne, we basically survived on Coop's ready-to-eat chicken, instant noodles that we brought from home, frozen pizza, bread and chocolate cake. For budget conscious travelers, Coop's ready-to-eat chicken is really a good deal. A half chicken costs 6.95 CHF while a drumstick costs 4.20 CHF. The chicken is a little salty, but you will at least get to eat some meat without burning a hole in your pocket.
Frozen pizza is a great deal too. A 6-inch pizza costs 3.95 CHF. We saved a lot of money on meals by eating supermarket foods.
Price: 1.60 CHF
I also picked up a bottle of Rivella to try. Rivella is a sparkling, iconic Swiss soft drink that is made from milk whey. It has a herbal, gingery flavor and is not overly sweet. I quite enjoy the taste but it is not not something that I would drink everyday.
Price: 0.45 CHF/ Tub
Surprisingly, yogurts are relatively cheap in Switzerland. I picked up the cheapest one on the shelves. It is a plain yogurt from Coop's Prix Garantie line. I must say that I love it. It was thick, creamy and smooth. So delicious!
EXPLORING LUCERNE
Known for its preserved medieval architectures and cobbled squares, Lucerne is one of the most populous city in Central Switzerland. Lucerne is pretty compact and walkable. Almost all major attractions in Lucerne are within walking distance. Walking the best and easiest way to explore the scenic city. Therefore, I really recommend that you wear comfy shoes as there will be a lot of uphill walking and cobblestoned streets.
Of course, there are also a few sights that you cannot reached on foot. However, the city has a very efficient public transportation systems that include buses and trains, making it easy to get around the city and the surrounding areas.
If you stay in an accommodation in Lucerne for at least a night, you will get a Lucerne Visitor Card. With a Visitor Card, you can use the public transportation for free within zone 10 of the city network, as well as a range of discounts for cableways, mountain railways, museums and excursions in the Lucerne-Lake Lucerne region. Do note that the Lucerne Visitor Card cannot be used together with the Half Fare Card.
If you are interested to know more about our trip, you may want to check out our 11D10 Switzerland Trip Itinerary + Overview post.
CHAPEL BRIDGE
The Reuss River flows through Lucerne, dividing the city into two distinct parts, the Old Town and the New Town, which are connected by several bridges. One of it is the famous Chapel Bridge.
Also known as Kapellbrucke, the Chapel Bridge is the most famous landmarks in Lucerne. Built in the 14th century, the Chapel Bridge is one of the oldest, covered wooden bridges in Europe.
The famous bridge crosses the Reuss River and connects the old town and new town of Lucerne. It was originally built as part of the city's fortifications, but today it is primarily used for pedestrian traffic.
The Chapel Bridge is one of the most photographed attractions in Switzerland. It is certainly impossible to miss the Chapel Bridge when you are in the city as it is located just a few minutes walk away from Lucerne Main Station. It is a popular spot for tourists and locals alike, and it is a must see destination for anyone visiting the city. If you are in Lucerne, be sure to stop by the Chapel Bridge and take a stroll across it.
In the very center of the bridge stands the 34 meters tall stone octagonal Water Tower. Despite its name, it is not a ''water tower'' because it doesn't hold any water. It was built in the late 13th century as part of the city wall, and was previously used as an archive, treasury and prison and torture chamber by the Lucerne's ruling class. However, the Water Tower is not open to the public, and therefore cannot be visited inside.
The best time to see the bridge are in the morning or evening. It is usually empty in the mornings, and if you can manage to beat the crowds, you can take travel photos without tourists in them. However, I find that the Chapel Bridge is most spectacular when it is lit up at night, casting beautiful reflections on the water below.
We also happened to witness the stunning sunset in Lucerne. The sunset painted the city skyline with shades with pink and purple, creating a serene and romantic atmosphere.
OLD TOWN (ALTSTADT)
Lucerne's old town is car-free. The picturesque squares and cobblestone alley are lined with restaurants, shops and cafes. The well-preserved old town is peaceful, which offers visitors a break from the modern noise of ubiquitous traffic. You can wander through the charming narrow cobblestone streets and gorgeous medieval squares, and enjoy taking in the sights and sounds of the city.
There are hundreds of drinking fountains across Lucerne where you can fill up your empty water bottles for free. Don't worry, the water from these fountains are very clean and perfectly safe to drink.
The old town boulevard is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. It lies between the city hall and Chapel Bridge along the Reuss River. The boulevard is lined with numerous restaurants that offers a variety of cuisines and seating options, including outdoor tables that provides the best view of the river.
There are plenty of places to sit down and recline along the shore. We spent a lot of time sitting by the river watching the swans and ducks swimming around happily.
However, the old town gets extremely quiet after the shops close. Majority of the stores leave their lights on after closing, which helps to illuminate the streets. Do note that shops are closed on Sundays and public holidays. If you need something, head to the Lucerne Main Station where shops and supermarkets are generally open.
LAKE PROMENADE
The Lake Lucerne Promenade is the best place in the city to take a leisurely stroll. You can easily get to the lake promenade from Lucerne Main Station. It is located just right across the road from the Chapel Bridge.
The lakeside promenade is lined with trees and benches. You can sit under the shade of the trees on the side of the lake and enjoy the beautiful scenery. On weekends and evenings, the promenade can get very busy with locals who came to relax and take a stroll.
There are several street vendors lining the path, including ice cream stands. We bought two scoops of ice cream from one of the ice cream stands and enjoyed it sitting on the banks of the lake.
JESUIT CHURCH
Standing proudly at the bank of Reuss River, just a few steps from the Chapel Bridge, is the stunning Baroque Jesuit Church. Built in the 17th century, Jesuit Church is the first sacral Baroque church built in Switzerland.
SPREUER BRIDGE (SPREUEBRUCKE)
Located a little down the Reuss River, a few minutes walk from the Chapel Bridge, you will find the Spreuer Bridge. Also known as Spreuebrucke, the Spreuer Bridge is the second oldest wooden bridge in Lucerne. The Spreuer Bridge is somewhat shorter and less dominant in appearance than the Chapel Bridge. Even so, it is no way inferior to its big sister.
NEEDLE DAM
If you stand on the bridge and look upriver, you will also see the Needle Dam. Built between 1859 and 1861, the Needle Dam is a weir designed to control the flow of water level from Reuss River into Lake Lucerne in order to prevent flooding. The Reuss River Needle Dam is actually one of the last remaining needle dams in the world.
Near the Spreuer Bridge, you will also find a small hydroelectric power plant shooting out a jet of water. This is a great example of how Lucerne combines modern technology with its historic structures and buildings. The water diverted by the Needle Dam is used by the hydroelectric power plant to generate enough electricity to power 1,500 homes in Lucerne.
The Spreuer Bridge is often less busy as it is less well-known than the Chapel Bridge. In fact, it was almost empty when we visited it. We had the whole bridge to ourselves! The Reuss River gushes swiftly beneath the bridge. We took our time to listen to the roaring sound of the water. It was so relaxing.
MEGGENHORN CASTLE (SCHLOSS MEGGENHORN)
We also visited the Meggenhorn Castle, which is a castle located in Meggen, just outside of Lucerne. To get from Lucerne Main Station to Meggenhorn Castle, you can take Bus no. 24 and get off Meggen, Lerchenbuhl bus stop. The bus departs every 15 minutes and costs 3.10 CHF with a half fare card. If you have a Lucerne Visitor Card or Swiss Travel Pass, you can ride for free. You can check the bus timetable and information on SBB Mobile app. To search for the bus timetable on SBB app, you have to enter Luzern, Bahnhof as the departure point, and Meggen, Lerchenbuhl as the arrival point.
The bus ride from Lucerne Main Station to Meggen, Lerchenbuhl bus stop will take approximately 11 minutes. From Meggen, Lerchenbuhl bus stop, it is just a 5 minutes walk to the entrance of the park, and a further 10 minutes walk to the castle.
Perched on a hillside overlooking the bay of Lake Lucerne with a view of the city of Lucerne and Alps, the castle grounds are open to the public all year round.
The castle overlooks a vineyard and is a popular place for the locals for picnicking. However, this place has remained undiscovered by mass tourism as it is not a well-known tourist spot in Lucerne.
Built between 1868 and 1870, the castle is inspired by Chateaux Chambord in the Loire Valley France
The castle is only open every Sunday from 12 pm to 5 pm during April to October for tours, but you are free to walk around the castle grounds at all times.
On the ridge behind the castle, there is a beautiful garden that you can walk through and take in the view of the lake. There was hardly any tourists here, so it felt like we had the place to ourselves. It was so nice, peaceful and quiet. In this oasis of peace and tranquility, all you can hear is the chirping of the birds. We spent an hour here before taking the bus back to the city.
MUSEGG WALL & ITS NINE TOWERS (MUSEGGMAUER)
A 10 minutes steep uphill walk will take you to the Musegg Wall. Built in the 13th century, the Musegg Wall is 870 meters long and retains nine of the thirty observation towers. The historic city wall is once part of Lucerne's historic fortifications. Today, it is is one of the best well-preserved and longest fortifications in Switzerland.
The Musegg Wall, and its four towers - Mannli, Zyt, Wacht and Schirmer towers, are open to the public from 8 am to 7 pm daily during April to October. It will be closed during the winter months for safety reasons. Admission to the Musegg Wall and the four towers is free.
Do note that there are a lot of stairs to climb within the towers. Therefore, it is not accessible for people with walking disabilities. The stairs are pretty steep and narrow, allowing only one person to climb up and down at a time. I would recommend you to wear proper footwear if you are planning to climb the towers. You may want to use the handrail while ascending or descending to reduce your chance of falling or slipping.
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Once you climbed up, you can walk along the ramparts of the Musegg Wall where the medieval guards of the city were stationed. The walk along the ramparts offers panoramic views over the city and surrounding mountains.
We only visited two of the four towers - the Schirmer and Zyyturm tower. Personally, we felt that there was nothing spectacular about the towers. Among the two, the Zyyturm stands out more.
The 31 meters tall clocktower is the most elaborate and most beautiful among all the towers of the Musegg Wall. Built in 1535, the Zyyturm houses the oldest clock in Lucerne, as well as all of central Switzerland.
The top of the clocktower is a large enclosed space with several small windows, offering views of the city.
Just like every tower, you need to climb a steep flight of stairs to reach the top. If you visit on a hot summer day like us, you may tire yourself out. Furthermore, I feel that the views at the top are not worth the climb. To be honest, we didn't enjoy visiting the Musegg Wall and the towers very much. Perhaps, it is because we don't really like visiting historical buildings, so it was hard for us to enjoy.
DYING LION MONUMENT
The Dying Lion Monument is one of the most famous monuments in Switzerland. Measuring 10 meters in length and 6 meters in height, the massive sandstone monument of a lion stands behind a pool of water in one of the idyllic parks in the center of the city.
With about 1.4 millions visitors a year, the Lion Monument is one of the popular tourist attraction in Lucerne. Craved into the side of an old sandstone quarry, the monument is symbol of loyalty and courage, created to commemorate the Swiss guards who were massacred during the French Revolution in 1792.
Being a popular tourist attraction, the area can get very crowded, especially when large tour groups arrive. If you have a bit of time on your hand, you can find a corner in the park to sit down and wait for them to leave. Don't worry, most of the tour groups will not stay here for very long.
CHURCH OF ST. LEODEGAR (HOFKIRCHE)
Just steps from the Dying Lion Monument, near the promenade along Lake Lucerne is another famous landmark of Lucerne. Built between 1633 and 1639, the Church of St. Leodegar, or Hofkirche, is one of the most important buildings and landmarks in Lucerne.
The Church of St. Leodegar had undergone several modifications throughout the centuries, so the church you see now is no longer the original. It is open for visit on weekdays from 8 am to 12 pm, and from 2 pm to 5 pm. Admission to the church is free.
This was basically how we spent our two days in Lucerne. There is so much to see in Lucerne. From breathtaking mountain views and picturesque lakeside strolls to historic sites, we have never run out of things to explore.
Of course, it is possible to visit all these Lucerne attractions in one day, but we prefer to take it slow. Thus, we didn't get to explore the surrounding areas or spend much time in the mountains.
But anyway, Lucerne was just a stop for us to recover from jet lag so that we can enjoy the rest of our trip better. Personally I think two days is enough for you to enjoy almost everything this picturesque city has to offer. However, three days will be the ideal amount of time to spend in Lucerne in order to experience everything the city has, as well as visit the surrounding mountains.
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